Simplicity, the word that keeps coming up for me in conversation these past few years, it’s the topic I can't seem to get away from… How can I take away stuff? How can I take away the wanting and needing of the perceived value that unnecessary physical products, thoughts, and emotions give me? Everything, even down to the movements I make in my surfing, how can I take it all away only leaving what's most important?

This is not an opinion on localism or aggression in the lineup, simply it is an observation of the peculiarity that exists in the act of sliding on walls of water, and what many forms of richness and perspective it brings to our lives.

As I try to remember the idea that every wave is an opportunity to deepen the connection to what already is, I feel that I am stepping closer to simplicity. I can carry that mindset over into the rest of life and continue to appreciate what is, and what is necessary, slowly stripping everything else away.

Thank you surfing.

Written By:

Jack Ventura