Welcome to the Wave Sliders Journal, Entry 08
Journal Entry written by: Neal Campbell
Intro by: Jack Ventura
This week's Wave Slider Journal, written by Neal Campbell, is a display of optimism and trust in the idea that "life has a funny way of putting you where you need to be.” Enjoy an entry by underground east coast legend, Neal Campbell.
Life has a funny way of putting you where you need to be. Growing up in New York was something I could never give up. It gave me a perfect mixture of city excitement and beach relaxation while providing the experiences necessary to learn the importance of hard work and consistency.
My father, a passionate surfer, taught me how to surf, and my love for the ocean grew. First, as a surfer, I would chase waves up and down the coast, and later as a photographer capturing the moments all surfers dream of. New York gave me grit, but last summer, it was time to try a new way of living.
My wife and I decided to move our two kids to a farmhouse, just a little north of New York, and about a mile down the road from some of New England's best waves. We couldn't think of a better location to raise our family, and as a surfer, I was a kid at a candy store. My most challenging decision was the type of wave I wanted to surf and what board I wanted to ride. Things were good.
Winter came around, and things got even better. The crowds left, and the waves kept coming. I couldn't believe how much fun I had and how tuned in to nature I was. That was until my New Year's resolution to "get in shape" led me to a free class at a local gym.
Fifteen minutes into my free class, I allowed my ego to get in the way. I did weightlifting in my younger years, but it had been a while, and the combination of not stretching and pride led to me tearing my quad. Naive about the severity of my injury, reality hit when the doctor assured me I would be out for a few months. I was initially saddened by the news but couldn't let it get me down.
I decided I would keep up with the gym, rehab and pick up my camera again. Instead of surfing, I stretched, lifted weights (correctly), and took pictures of my friends and new community. Worried about re-injuring my leg, I hesitated to return to the water. Last week, however, when the conditions lined up, I ripped the proverbial band-aid off and surfed perfect beach break conditions with a few close friends.
While I initially thought my injury would be a significant setback, it has put me in a position to return healthier than I have been in years. Life has a funny way of putting you where you need to be.
What Neal is Stoked On...
...In the Community
Moving to New England has opened up a new community of surfers and waves that has rejuvenated my excitement for surfing.
..In Thoughts & Quotes
|"Everything happens for a reason."|
..In The Faro Workshop
Stoked about my 10ft Faro Canvas Bag. I have used various bags, and I love how easily the board slips into the bag. After a long session, the last thing I want to do is wrestle to get my board in a bag. The Faro bag could not be easier. I look forward to adding some Faro bags to keep the rest of my quiver pristine and my car free of wax. The El Navegante looks like the perfect bag as I explore more remote waves.